A walk down Victoria Street

Written by Helen Fowler

Just off George IV Bridge and tucked away behind the High Street is the time warp of Victoria Street. One of the most atmospheric streets in Edinburgh (not a city short of such things), the place feels like it belongs in a Harry Potter movie. 

So no coincidence, then, that JK Rowling penned the first Potter novel just around the corner, in the now famous Elephant House cafe. Victoria Street's cobbles, its steep hill and mediaeval tenements create an aura of magic.

Restaurants abound

Among the many restaurants in Victoria Street are Howies and Maison Bleue (my coffee at the latter was lukewarm and service verged on amateurish, though the setting went some way to making up for that). The Grain Store is another popular eatery, though I have to confess I can't vouch for it personally, never having eaten there.

Just across the way, in Johnston Terrace, is Maxie's Bistro, one place I do know from personal experience, having spent far too much time there as a teenager. I haven't been back there in a while (my cider-drinking days were behind me, even before the Chancellor slapped all that extra duty on the stuff).

Test of time

But any pub that stands the test of time for more than thirty years has to be worth further investigation. 

Sadly, the old Preservation Hall in Victoria Street (another scene of my mis-spent youth) has disappeared. But it has not been replaced by a dull gastro-pub.

Independent spirit

Victoria Street has retained its independent spirit over the intervening years. It remains home to a densely-packed range of one-off eateries.

It is a treasure trove of the unusual - a second-hand bookshop, wool merchant and shops selling clothes for the tall and outsized. You can buy whacky kitchen equipment and freshly ground coffee. For many years the street was home to an old-fashioned hardware store.

No chains

You will find none of the familiar coffee shops or restaurant chains here (unless you count neighbouring Pizza Express, on the corner with George IV Bridge). It is a haven for all of us who value something different.