Edinburgh has no shortage of cafés for thirsty visitors in search of refreshment. There are the usual chains, of which my favourite is Costa in Castle Street, with views towards Edinburgh Castle. And the city also has many quirky, independent eateries that offer something more unusual.

In central Edinburgh, minutes from Princes Street, is Henderson's Cafe, at 94 Hanover Street. Henderson's is an Edinburgh institution, now in its fiftieth year. It pioneered wholesome vegetarian cuisine, bringing healthy eating into the mainstream. And it's still deservedly popular today. But be warned: access is via steep steps.

The Olive Tree Cafe at St George's West Church, in Shandwick Place, is in the heart of the West End. It's another great place to meet friends for coffee or lunch. Kindly staff serve tasty, fresh food and the place is good if you're on a budget. Glass & Thompson, at 2 Dundas Street, is next door to many of the city's art dealers in the Georgian New Town. It's sufficiently interesting to be immortalised in the novels of Alexander McCall Smith, whose fictional characters meet there for coffee.

Glass & Thompson can be pricey, but the food is gourmet. On the other side of the city, in the Old Town, is the Elephant House, where JK Rowling reportedly penned some of the early Harry Potter books. Well worth a visit, if only to admire the collection of miniature elephants.

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